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DAY 3: JÆGERSBORGGADE & THE BLUE PLANET

 
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SHOPPING & THE SEA

MORNING

Skip the hotel breakfast this morning and make an early start for the neighbourhood of NØRREBRO, northwest of Indre By. The best way of getting up here is on a Copenhagen City Bike. From the city centre, you can follow National Cycle Route 2 from the Rådhuspladsen, next to Tivoli, over the inner lakes and up to Ågade, where you can pick up the Green Cycle Route to within 200m of Jægersborggade (about 3km in total). The route (see here for a handy map) passes by the corner of ASSISTENS KIRKEGÅRD, the final resting place of Hans Christian Anderson, so you could turn off at Kapelvej and take a detour through the cemetery’s leafy parklands on your way; the author of The Little Mermaid, amongst others, is buried in the park’s southern corner.

By now, breakfast is calling. Facing Assistens Kirkegård to the north, the once down-at-heel JÆGERSBORGGADE is now one of the trendiest streets in Copenhagen. The shops don’t open until 10am, so you can while away the time over a hot helping of porridge at Grød; it’s hygge happiness in a bowl. Jægersborggade is lined with cool boutiques, design studios, art galleries and independent vintage shops, so you may need to distracts your kids with a Danish pastry or a hindbærsnitter from Meyers Bageri if you want to do some proper browsing. Once you’ve filled your bags with sleek kitchenware and one-off designer goods, it’s time to head back towards the airport. Don’t worry, you’re not going home just yet.

AFTERNOON

The nearest metro stop is Forum Station, 1.5km southeast of Jægersborggade – there’s a Copenhagen City Bike rack 150m up the road from the station if you’re still on two wheels. It’s nine stops (just under 20 minutes) to Kastrup and then a ten-minute walk from there to the futuristic-looking BLUE PLANET [daily 10am–5pm, Mon till 9pm | 170kr, under-12s 95kr, under-3s free, free with Copenhagen Card], the largest aquarium in Northern Europe. The enormous Ocean Tank is (literally) the big attraction here, filled with wonders of the deep and attached to a walkthrough tunnel that leads beneath circling hammerhead sharks and stingrays. Of the other fifty or so exhibits, which take in everything from coral reefs to northern lakes, your kids won’t want to miss the Amazonas section, where butterflies and birds flit around waterfalls and rivers that are home to anacondas, gigantic arapaima catfish and several thousand red-bellied piranhas. Make sure you check the website for feeding times, particularly the sea otters’, who use their tummies as tables to crack open shellfish. From the Blue Planet, it’s just a ten-minute walk back to Kastrup Station and then a five-minute metro ride to the airport.


TOP TIP If you’re visiting Copenhagen in summer, then you may want to break up the sightseeing with a dip in the ISLANDS BRYGGE HARBOUR BATHS [open 24 hours a day from June until September (lifeguards on duty from 11am to 7pm) | free]. There are five pools, two specifically for children, plus diving boards, and it’s a popular spot with local families, partly because the harbour waters are incredibly clean (they’re regularly tested all the same). The baths are on the edge of Christianshavn, on the opposite side of the harbour to Tivoli.


WHERE TO EAT

Grød does porridge. They don’t do anything else. But when the bowls they dish up in their “porridge bar” on Jægersborggade are so far removed from the bland, gloopy slop that most kids know, they don’t really need to. Grød’s standard bowl of steaming goodness is topped with homemade caramel sauce, fresh apples and roasted almonds. Other toppings include peanut butter, freeze-dried raspberries and cinnamon sugar. If you can’t choose what to have, ask for the “ALL IN” and get yours laden with the lot.




THE LIJOMA LOWDOWN

COPENHAGEN INSIGHTS

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OUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO STAY IN COPENHAGEN

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NEED TO KNOW

WHEN TO VISIT COPENHAGEN

A handy overview of Copenhagen’s weather and climate throughout the year, with recommendations for the best time to visit

COPENHAGEN ESSENTIALS

Pre-trip practicalities, including getting there, visas and passports, health and safety and how to get around